The Quest for Ben’s Brown

Upon being informed that Golden Hills Brewing Company won a bronze medal at the World Beer Cup in the American-Style Dark Lager category over the weekend, I made it my mission for the night to go taste one on tap. Golden Hills is based out of nearby Reardan and they have been making great tasting lagers since they opened their doors a little over a year ago but you have to find them on tap, as Golden Hills does not bottle their beer commercially.

I started at a relatively new spot in downtown called the Post Street Ale House. Connected to the Hotel Lusso, the décor was a little classier than one would expect from an ale house and my waitress was prompt in serving me. However, they had no Golden Hills on tap. Instead, I chose Iron Horse’s Quilters Irish Death, a stylistically unclassifiable malt bomb.

When my glass arrived, my feelings for the establishment went sharply downhill. Looking at my glass, I could not tell if I had been served a soda by accident there were so many bubbles clinging to the side (see picture). Improperly cleaned or rinsed glassware can leave specks of contamination that become what is known as “nucleation sites” for carbon dioxide bubbles. In a clean glass, the bubbles can rise undisturbed and form a nice head while a dirty glass will effectively kill that part of the beer drinking experience. At a place purporting to be an ale house, I would expect much more attention to detail.

My headless beer was dark as midnight and smelling of slightly burnt caramel with a slight hop presence. Following in line with the nose, the taste was sweet and malty with just a hint of hops. Chewy and warming, Irish Death is a very approachable beer. But tipplers beware: the high alcohol content sneaks up on you quick!

Thirsty Zymurgist Score: 44/50 (7.8% ABV)

After a couple more hours of work and a hearty dinner, I joined my compatriot Brian to continue the quest for Ben’s Brown. We began at Brooklyn Nights and were partially rewarded: they had Lizzy’s Lager and Clem’s Gold from Golden Hills on tap. Deciding on the Clem’s, I was not disappointed. Golden yellow with a proper head, Clem’s went down easy due to it being so crisp and refreshing. There is enough of a malt presence to add a touch of sweetness and to solidify the mouthfeel, but nothing is aggressive about Clem’s and that is why it is so tasty.

Thirsty Zymurgist Score: 42/50

Even though our bartender, Isaiah, was a great conversationalist, we were on a quest. Next up was The Elk in Browne’s Addition. Avont greeted us warmly but informed us that there were no Golden Hills on tap. Fearing over-inebriation if we had a drink at every stop, Brian and I immediately departed for our next destination; The Swamp.

Tuesday is apparently the best day for bartenders in Spokane because manning the bar was Carl, a long time favorite bartender of anyone who enjoys proper beer. Sadly, they also did not have any Golden Hills on tap, but it was getting late and the quest was losing its legs, so Brian and I decided to have a Dogfish Head India Brown Ale. After something as light as Clem’s, the India Brown was like a meal. A cross between an IPA, a Scotch ale and an American brown ale and made with a touch of brown sugar, the India Brown is malty sweet but has enough of a hop kick to it to make it very drinkable. There are some light fruit notes but the main star is the malt profile that has a layered flavor. Dogfish Head never disappoints.

Thirsty Zymurgist Score: 45/50 (7.2% ABV / 50 IBUs)

In the end, our quest failed. It was disappointing to go out in search of what should be a readily available local offering and end up empty handed, but with a fine friend with me and some nice bartenders, the night was not a complete loss. The quest will have to continue on another day.

Update: I received an email from Bernie at Golden Hills that included an up to date list on where I can find Ben’s Brown and an apology for not having the website up to date. Good people making good beer are always worth my support.