Brew like a Monk

Over the last couple of months I have amassed a considerable library of brewing books by scouring second-hand websites and supplemented by a trip to Powell’s in Portland. I set out with a list I compiled from both the Brewer’s Association and Beer Judge Certification Program’s recommended reading lists. Not by any means comprehensive, I still have enough beer reading to keep me busy up until I move to Davis.

Although I am interested in most styles of beer, I have been fascinated with all things Belgian as of late so I decided to read Brew like a Monk by Stan Hieronymus. Second in a trilogy that focuses on Belgian and northern French beers and the breweries that produce them, it easily stands alone as a guide to Trappist, Abbey and Strong Belgian Ales. Bursting at the seams with knowledge both gained first-hand and relayed to the author, “Monk” is filled with amusing and insightful anecdotes, often from the brewers themselves, never allowing the narrative to become dry or numbingly technical.

But make no mistake, although an interesting read, it is technically oriented and I would recommend it for people with a more than cursory knowledge of brewing techniques and terms. I found the individual brewery histories fascinating, especially discovering the amount to which they influenced each other, sometimes directly. Just learning the distinction between true Trappist and abbey ales proved helpful and it was interesting to see how the monk’s fought to preserve the distinction (beers or any item carrying the official Trappist label must meet three criteria: they must be brewed within an abbey, overseen by the monks and abbot and the largest share of the profits must be spent on social work).

“Monk” left me with much to contemplate and a smile on my face due to Hieronymus and the monk’s superb and understated wit (as in, intellectual humor, not the Dutch beer style). But it also left me with the feeling that one of man’s highest callings is to contemplate their beer. In that spirit and tradition, I purchased a couple of the beers highlighted in the book for sampling.

First up was what many people consider to be the beer that defines the Belgian golden style; Duvel from Moortgat. The bubbly head formed quickly and lasted for days. Smelling of sour banana rounded by sweet malts, the flavors of Duvel are layered and very nuanced for a beer as light as it is. Sweet bread and biscuit tones are buoyed by banana with deep red berry at the edges and a subtle but splendid hop presence, accented ever so delicately by a blend of spices. Duvel is described in “Monk” as tasting like the “tears of an angel,” a claim which I would find hard to refute.

Thirsty Zymurgist Score: 47/50

Next was Orval, which has long been one of my favorite beers. Pouring toffee-orange with a slightly off-white head, the aroma of sweet bread and flowers, orange zest, musty leather and the yeast invade the nose. Delicious malty/yeasty flavor washes over the tongue and is accompanied by more citrus and flowers, hints of spice hiding in the corners and that beautiful brett funkiness keeping the hops in check. Unique while remaining accessible, Orval is a delight to drink alone but it pairs well with just about any meal as well.

Thirsty Zymurgist Score: 48/50

High scores, I know. But when you either define a style (such as Duvel) or encompass a style onto oneself (like Orval) and taste as amazing as they do, it is the very definition of world-class.